Sunday, April 19, 2026

Weekend in Durham - Day 1

On the 21st of March we headed off to Durham for the weekend. It's where Lee is from originally so we do go and visit his family there, but we hadn't been into the city centre for literally twenty years. Maybe longer! Then I read Cuddy by Benjamin Myers for my book club in January which is about St Cuthbert and Durham cathedral and I wanted to visit the cathedral and his shrine, so we made plans to go. 

We set off from home around 10am and easily made it up the A1 to Belmont Park and Ride. We got on the bus which only takes a few minutes into the city centre, and got off by the market place. There was an outdoor market on as well as the indoor one, so we looked at that before heading into the indoor market. I had read that there's a queer bookshop there so I obviously had to buy some books from there, and then we looked at everything else. There's a ton of cute stalls! There's a record stall and a really cool place selling upcycled jewellery - I bought some earrings. We went back outside and got an ice cream from a van in the market place. The sun was out so although it was a bit cool, it was lovely to be in the sunshine.

We walked up Saddler Street and up the very very steep bit to where the cathedral and castle are. We looked at the castle but had decided to not go in, so we just headed to the cathedral. We looked round that, which you can do for free, and which includes St Cuthbert's shrine behind the altar. That's really cool, but you can also see his treasures in the museum, which is £7.50 each which I felt was reasonable. The person who sold us the ticket told us that the cathedral was closing at 3pm for a service at 4pm so we looked round it first and then went up to the museum. 

By the time we had finished it was about 3.30 and we had walked a long way and were tired, so we decided to go for a drink in a place called Tango on Saddler Street. I had a peach melba cocktail which was nice, and Lee had a hot chocolate. 

When we had finished that we went across to Turkish Kitchen where we had decided to eat. Turkish food is always good for vegetarian so I was happy to go there. I had cheese filled filo pastry things, and then falafel with hummus, and Kir Royale. It was all so good and arrived in double quick time so we were done by about 5pm! We walked back to the bus stop and got back to the car and then went to Lee's dad's house where we were staying for the night.

Lee's dad was in but his stepmam was out, she had been in Sunderland at the theatre, so Lee's dad went to pick her up. Everyone was back by 8pm so we just sat and chatted which was nice! 

I walked bloody miles and up really steep hills too, so I was impressed with myself. Here's ten thousand photos: 


Sitting in the sunshine in the market place while Lee went to get ice creams


Lee has a sundae but I had a traditional cornet


And here we are, aren't we cute


We went into a pop up museum thing and there was an old sign, which I love


And some information about Cuthbert


And a scale model of the cathedral! 


And Durham bricks


This sign was on The People's Bookshop which was also a really cool bookshop, although I didn't buy anything in there


And then, the cathedral! Looking stunning in the sunshine


Looking towards the castle


This is a replica of the sanctuary knocker which is really old, it was cool to see this one anyway! But then the original turned out to be in the Treasures of St Cuthbert exhibit which was amazing to see


One of the shrines, I liked the sculpture


And there was info about the Venerable Bede too. His head is in St Cuthbert's shrine, because of course it is


Looking up into the tower


And I thought this embroidered hanging of the gospel writers was cool too 


The rose window, which is amazing but hard to photograph 


The shrine of St Cuthbert himself! I loved seeing this





I also loved this rainbow window, of course


And I can never resist a mining banner...


And loved this memorial to the miners, which had a book full of miners names, too 


Looking out on to the cathedral lawn 


And out over the River Wear


This is the St Cuthbert exhibit, the first part was in what had been the monks' dormitory and is now a library. It had a lot on the history of Durham which was interesting too



This is an effigy of Cuthbert himself


Love a bit of bookkeeping


We went downstairs into a special archival airlocked room which has what is left of Cuthbert's coffin, and his necklace which is a cross of gold with garnets in, which was so cool to see. But you can't take photos in there, so I didn't



This embroidery was SO cool though, made by a local artist. It was amazing in person! 


Back out now on the cathedral green


Drinks in Tango


And a Kir Royale, which was delicious



My food


And here are the books I bought in the queer bookshop!

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